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What fun: playing music with Chip every night! |
We have
taken much to heart as we travel around in Lilypad. We have learned a great deal about the heart
of this country, we have had old and new friends open their homes and their
hearts to us, and now here we are deep, as they say, in the heart of
Texas. At this moment we sit in the San
Antonio kitchen of Glenn ("Chip") Hughes, high school buddy of Liz’s, university
professor, philosopher, musician, poet and all-around big heart. We were here
for Thanksgiving and had such a good time that after a 10-day trip to the Texas
coast, we came back to spend a few more days. He feeds us, and gives us the run of
his house (oh what fun to have comfortable chairs, showers, good internet, and
cable tv to watch Seahawk games.) The
house is filled with books and it’s a lot like hanging out in a really good
library. Furthermore Chip loves to engage in heart-filled conversation and
wait, there’s more: he is affirming and
patient about our fiddle and concertina practice and the three of us have been
playing and singing together every evening.
Chip also
kindly took time from his busy academic life and showed us the town of
Fredericksburg and his favorite Hill Country drive along the Guadalupe River.
In San Antonio he introduced us to his friends, showed us some of the city, and
took us to both the innovative Institute of Texan Cultures and the McNay Art
Museum.
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Padre Island National Seashore |
Our ten days
in southeast Texas found us along the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail and
visits to four of the many beautiful Texas state parks. We went to Rockport on
the coast and took the free ferry over to Mustang Island, one of the long
barrier islands on the Gulf of Mexico, where we camped on the beach and toured
the University of Texas Marine Science Institute’s estuary visitor center. In Port
Aransas we enjoyed a delicious sea food lunch and some serious bird watching,
seeing Black Bellied Whistling Ducks and a flock of Pyrrhuloxia (no, we did not learn how to pronounce that.) Then it was
south over a causeway to Padre Island National Seashore where we saw Skimmers
and Royal Terns, Snow Geese, White-tailed Hawks, two kinds of pelicans, Red
Headed Ducks and Sandhill Cranes. As environmentalist Hazel Wolf used to say, “Some
of those birds needed watching.”
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"Javie" checking us out at Falcon Lake |
We also
learned about the historic cattle ranches of Texas. We drove through Corpus
Christi and stopped at the Kenedy Ranch Museum, a small but well-done and
highly informative museum in the tiny town of Serita. At Port Isobel we stopped
at Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge where we added Green Jays and Black
Legged Stilts to the bird list. Liz went on a tram ride and learned about the Nilgai,
(introduced Indian antelopes) that, along with feral hogs are major challenges
to refuge managers. This refuge also hosts 12 of the 50 ocelots that are known
to live wild in the United States and many major research and management
strategies are in place to support this population. In Falcon State Park, we
were quite excited to see a wild javelina.
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Would have loved to see Hidalgo lights at night |
We were
surprised when we stopped at the Brownsville Visitor Center to be greeted as
“Winter Texans”. Evidently the area makes a concerted effort to attract
northern visitors, and many signs proclaim welcome. Birders are a big part of
this business and there are even associations limited to "Birding B&Bs." Close
to 500 bird species have been sighted from the coast up the river, many of
which cannot be seen in other areas of the United States. Along the way we
discovered some other interesting things like delicious oranges and grapefruits
sold from pick-up trucks, the holiday lights of Hidalgo, and the city of
Laredo, where everyone was speaking Spanish and our light skin and ignorance of
the language clearly labeled us as out-of-town visitors.
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Guess we're in a Homeland Security file now |
As we
traveled west on Military Road (also known as Highway 281) we witnessed many
instances of law enforcement/citizen interactions, a startling illustration of this nation's huge increase in police personnel along the Mexican border. That, and the occasional sight of the fifteen-foot
fence that marks the border between Mexico and the US, were to us, a profoundly sad
sight. We were stopped at check points and repeatedly photographed by Homeland
Security cameras. The police presence made us uncomfortable and brought thoughts of a "police state," making us wonder how our neighbors to the south must feel when they come here, whether legally or illegally. We wonder whatever happened to heart-felt welcomes and
general open-heartedness in southern Texas.
After
enjoying a quiet Texas state park at Lake Casa Blanco on the outskirts of
Laredo, we headed north and found ourselves driving through oil, gas and fracking operations for
200 miles. It boggled our environmentalist realities to see the machinery every few miles on the ranch lands, and dusty little
crossroad towns that are now highly industrialized and are apparently surviving by economies based on servicing these huge sites.
But we were somewhat cheered by
spotting countless Crested Caracaras and other raptors dotting the landscape along the way. That’s one nice thing about the heart of Texas: it’s really good for the birds.