Bison roam Antelope Island and across the water is Salt Lake City |
We’re ten days into Part Two of Lilypad’s great adventure
and find ourselves at Antelope Island State Park in the middle of the Great Salt Lake. Meadow larks
greeted us this morning as we walked around the campground, marveling at the huge
harvest moon setting into the lake to the southwest while at the same time, the sun came up over the mountains in the east. This island is a refuge for birds, bison, prong
horn antelope, big horn sheep and people. Yesterday we toured the historic Fielding Garr Ranch, the first
permanent residence on the island. We looked across at Salt Lake City, dwarfed
by the vastness of the lake and mountains surrounding it. The buffalo were all
over the road, but the long-eared jackrabbits out in the prairie refused to
hold still for pictures.
Main Street in Joseph, Oregon with sculpture and fall colors |
A week ago we briefly toured Joseph, Oregon,
identified by National Geographic as one of America’s Small Town Great Escapes, and a site along the Hell's Canyon National Scenic Byway.
Blessed with three bronze foundries, the town has public statues on every
corner and the ornamental maples along the historic downtown main street delighted
us with our first blaze of fall color. The flourishing little shops spoke to
the power of art to support a small town economy, although no doubt the
beautiful surrounding ranches and remote recreation areas don’t hurt either. Then we enjoyed the paved Forest Service road through the Wallowa Mountains, stayed
in a $3 campground, and stopped at the spectacular lookout over the
Snake River at Hell's Canyon.
Connie, Liz, California Condor, Janna and Craig |
In Idaho we stopped to visit dear friends Connie and Craig
who recently moved from Alaska to an airpark near Nampa. While we were there,
we managed to visit briefly with Janna’s sister and brother-in-law, and
another old Alaskan friend, Carol and her partner Judith. Connie and Craig took
us on excursions to Boise and Nampa where we were impressed with the
friendliness of the people and the prevalence of paved bike trails. We also
stopped at the World Center for Birds of Prey. Perched high on a ridge
above the prairie we watched half a dozen different kinds of raptors soar
and interact with human handlers. The facility is famous for breeding
California Condors and we met the grandparents of some of the birds that now
fly free in California and Nevada.
Pool at Banbury Hot Springs |
We are surrounded by desert, and surprised to find hot springs everywhere.
Next door to Connie and Craig’s house, we took a swim at Givens Hot Springs, a funky
old pool that was established in 1881. Then we followed the Snake River and the 1000 Springs Scenic Byway, landing at Banbury Hot Springs where we enjoyed a virtually
empty campground and solo swims in a large pool constructed in 1920. This area
is also famous for the discoveries of ancient equines and other
fossils in the million year old fossil beds and hosts the Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument.
.
Leaving Idaho, it was on to Crystal Hot Springs in
Honeyville, Utah where we encountered a surprisingly international clientele at
a lovely campground. There are four separate pools here where both hot and cold
springs occur at the same location. If you get too hot swimming in the 100
degree pool, go stand under the cold waterfall. Want to be warmer? Go stand
under the hot waterfall. (Have we mentioned we have had weather in the 70’s every
day?)
Bridger Bay Camp Ground on Antelope Island |
So now we are on the Great Salt Lake, another oasis in the desert. It's too salty for fish,
but it's perfect for brine shrimp and algae making it a paradise for birds and
people who love birds and beautiful views. Last night we paired up with
neighbors in the campground to play some not great, but enjoyable music
with Liz on the fiddle and the neighbor on the guitar. Water in the desert; music in the desert. What could be better that
this?
Tomorrow we will explore the history and modern reality of Salt Lake City. Then it's back to nature as we head for the great national parks of southern Utah.
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