Bluegrass Night at Marsh Landing, Fellsmere |
We just left
our new RVing Women friends Donna and Fran in Fellsmere, Florida, after three
wonderful days in their excellent company. We landed at their house in time to
time to take in Bluegrass Night at Marsh Landing, a lovely old-Florida
restaurant owned and run by Fran and her daughter Susan. Housed in a renovated
historic building, the restaurant walls are covered with old photographs and taxidermy and other
items from Fellsmere’s past, making the restaurant also the de-facto Fellsmere
museum. But Marsh Landing is primarily a unique culinary destination, drawing from
an area far greater than the 5,000 people (mostly farmworkers) who actually
live in Fellsmere. Every Thursday night is Bluegrass Night when all 320 seats
are filled and folks are frequently turned away at the door. Fran herself is a
big draw, having served as Indian River County Commissioner for 12 years and
obviously well known and well liked. Later this year, Susan (who is also a
local favorite and the current mayor of Fellsmere) will be taking over
management of the restaurant so her mom can retire.
Liz gets into fossiling with Donna and Fran |
Fran and
Donna were the women that got us started on our kayaking adventures at Rainbow
Springs in December, and this time they took us out to the Peace River in
central Florida for a canoe/kayak expedition in search of million-year-old
fossils. Donna is an expert rock hound and fossil permit holder, and we floated
the river until her eagle eye honed in on a likely spot. Sure enough, a reach down
into the shallow stream brought up a fossil dugong bone (ancestor of the manatee). We tied up, unloaded gear and climbed into the knee-deep river that flowed
past our feet and ankles at 72 degrees. The next two hours were spent in the
water, shoveling and sifting gravel. We returned to Fran and Donna's house with many sharks teeth, an
equine tooth and lots more bone. Fran and Donna plan to start full-timing in
their motorhome this summer and we are looking forward to meeting up with them
in New Brunswick in July.
Janna communes with pelicans on one of our bike rides |
Prior to
that, we had another couple of weeks with our dear friend of many years, Mary
Rice who lives in Fort Pierce. During that time, Mary submitted a major
manuscript on sipuculan larvae, Janna got new glasses, Lilypad had her 30,000
mile check-up, Liz did a lot of yardwork, and we got our corporate and personal
taxes done while sitting at Mary’s dining room table. We also took in the fabulous
Fort Pierce Farmers Market, the SEAL Museum, a lecture at Florida Atlantic
University’s Harbor Branch Institute, a performance of “Late Night Catechism,” and
put many more miles on our bicycles.
Zora Neale Hurston's Gravesite in Fort Pierce |
On the day
before we left Fort Pierce we went and paid our respects at the gravesite ofZora Neale Hurston, an author Liz has revered since discovering her 45 years
ago through UW anthropology courses. Hurston was studying for her PhD with
Franz Boas when Alan Lomack from the Smithsonian Folklore Program lured her
away to collect stories and music from southern African-American communities.
She wrote and published four novels and dozens of plays and short stories, but died
in poverty in 1960. She was relatively unknown until 1973 when she was brought
back into public awareness through the work of Alice Walker. Now she is
considered to be one of the pre-eminent writers of African American literature
of the 20th century. The gravesite was unmarked for many years, but
Alice Walker found it in a small Black cemetery in Fort Pierce in 1973 and
added a gravestone, which we saw when we were there in 2003. Since then, a much
larger tribute has been installed, the work of artist James Liccone. We visited
it on a rainy day in Fort Pierce, one of those moments when you feel honored to
honor one of the Greats.
Now we are
headed towards the west coast and panhandle of Florida. We are looking forward
to meet-ups with Friday Harbor friends Debbie Pigman this week, then Teddy and
Alice Deane around the first of March. As we count our blessings, which are
many, old and new friends are high on the list.
I am a big Nora Zeale Hurston fan! Right on! Glad to know about the gravestone and tribute.
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