Heading for Taos, the last of our planned stops before embarking on a faster pace to Kentucky, we made a short stop in the lovely art town of Santa Fe. No one told us about the narrow streets in Santa Fe’s Old Town and heads were shaking as we dodged historic overhanging eaves, looking for space in coveted parking lots. We finally tucked Lilypad into a side street and were grateful to be close enough to walk around this beautiful town.
Our first
stop was Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill, voted Santa Fe’s Best Fish Taco, according to
the sign outside. While eating a delicious lunch, we asked a local about visiting
the Georgia O’Keefe Museum. She gave us directions and advised us to watch BOTH
the videos there. Then in the middle of our meal she brought over a slip of
paper with a list of other best restaurants in Santa Fe. We didn’t have the
heart to tell her we’d only be there for one meal. But if you’re headed there,
try: the Pantry on Cerillos, Cowgirls Barbeque on Guadalupe, and La Plazuela on
La Fonda (especially for the guacamole.)
At the
museum we enjoyed seeing O’Keefe’s early work and a great exhibit of her big
paintings featuring trees. Most of her New Mexico work was not here, but
fortunately some had been loaned to the Heard Museum in Phoenix, and we had seen
it there!
The takeaway
from our fleeting visit to Santa Fe was that we want more. We’d like to find
some immersion experience in Santa Fe to gain a deeper understanding of the
history of culture in that fascinating place.
We then
cautiously threaded our way out of Santa Fe and took Highway 64 up to Taos.
This narrow twisty road bordered the Rio Grande River and brought us through
the heart of the recently minted Rio Grand del Norte National Monument. Established at
the same time as the San Juan Islands National Monument, this beautiful piece
of public land includes a high mesa scoured by the gorge of the Rio Grande.
Climbing up to the ridge of the mesa and looking out over the river gorge was
breathtaking.
I'm so glad you went to Acoma Pueblo. I visited there in the early 90s, and it was extremely moving--its history is unique (I seem to recall that is is considered the oldest continually inhabited town in the US). Taos, the landscape around Taos, the Native American traditions present there, Santa Fe and its Cathedral, are all lovingly described in Robert Sund's book "Taos Mountain" which I gave you last year...When you're back home at last you can find in it powerful poetic reminders of features of that locale!
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