Janna supporting the local economy in Intercourse, PA |
After escaping from the grit of Philadelphia, we were
delighted to descend into Lancaster County, PA., home to many Amish and
Mennonite farmers and land of nitrate-free sausage, non-GMO corn and
wheat products, and free tasting rooms for all sorts of preserved foods. We loved the Amish horses, tried not to gawk
at the beautiful buggies, and had a couple of great cultural immersion
activities: one at a huge grocery store called Shady Maple Farm Market in East
Earle, PA, and then at Zook’s Fabric Shop in Intercourse, PA. We felt warmly at home
in rural Lancaster County and were momentarily tempted to settle in and buy the
Quilt Museum and Country Store (which we never saw because the owner had passed
away and the place was closed and on the market.)
Bikers and hikers share the Appalachian Trail at mid-point |
Instead we went on to Gettysburg where we toured the battle
site, museum and historic town. Here Captain George Pickett suffered his
ignominious defeat, forever captured on a huge painting called a Cyclorama
which covers the space of two football fields on a 360 degree wall space inside
the Museum and Visitors Center. The painting was completed in 1883 by the
French artist Paul Philippoteaux, then lost, nearly destroyed, found, restored and
brought here in 2008. The story of the restoration of the painting is as
interesting as the painting itself. Leaving Gettysburg, we found a lovely state park called Pine
Grove Furnace which, we soon learned, is the half-way point for the Appalachian Trail. It was fun learning about the trail and talking to pilgrims who were
making the 2,184 mile trip. Then we ventured north to Carlisle, where we wanted
to learn more about the notorious Indian boarding school there, but found no
museums or historical markers commemorating this important and tragic
history. On to Hershey where, in
addition to tasting chocolate, we learned of the philanthropy of Milton S. Hershey and the still-thriving school and company town he created. We also went to
Nazareth, PA and toured the Martin Guitar factory, a refreshingly different
corporate model.
Vassar quidditch team scrimmage |
So much in such a short time. Crossing from Pennsylvania into New York, we visited
an art museum at Vassar College, then stopped to watch the quidditch team
practice for a game (yes, muggles quidditch, as in Harry Potter.) Next was two days in
Hyde Park touring the Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt sites. The Franklin Delano
Roosevelt Presidential Museum and Library has just undergone a $53M renovation
and has emerged as a five star attraction. We were reminded of what was accomplished during the New Deal including
Social Security, the National Labor Relations Board, the Works Project
Administration, the Tennessee Valley Authority, the National Recovery
Administration and the Civil Conservation Corps. This extraordinary flurry of
legislation pulled the United States out of the Great Depression and put
millions of people back to work. Janna’s father was one of them, saved from
hunger by joining the CCC’s , he was a great admirer of FDR, and we were happy
to note that our visit to this museum coincided with what would have been his
99th birthday.
Liz visits with the Roosevelts at their home in Hyde Park |
It took us two visits to get through the Hyde Park offerings,
but that included a break for lunch at the Culinary Institute of America down the
road, where we dined at the Catarina d’Medici Restaurant , and ate excellent
Italian food served by students in an ongoing class. Then there was the
information about Eleanor and the visit to Val-kill Cottage, her refuge and
last home. Eleanor, of course, is much to be admired in her own right, especially
for her progressive stands on integration and civil rights. Then after FDR’s
death, she lived into old age writing a newspaper column and many books, and
serving as a delegate to the United Nations where she chaired the committee
that wrote the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. At her Val-Kill home she
entertained many famous people including John F. Kennedy who came there to gain
her support for his presidential campaign.
Janna got to celebrate her birthday this week in our
favorite kind of campground: a free one. We were delighted when we crossed the
border to discover Connecticut is one of the few states that allow overnight RV
parking at rest stops. We happily queued up with the north-bound snow birds
(returning from Florida) and climbed into bed. After breakfast and birthday
presents in the rest stop, we headed to the coast for a lobster roll lunch,
then spent a rainy afternoon and night at the Indian-owned Mohegan Sun Casino,
the largest gaming facility in North America and a very interesting and
impressive place. We are not big on gambling and shopping, and the local museum
was closed, but we were delighted to learn a bit of history from the shuttle
bus driver who,with only a little prodding, turned out to be a wealth of
information about the Mohegans and the area in general.
We find ourselves wanting to slow down a bit: tour less,
read more, but we do have a date for another birthday-related treat in Boston in a few days. Stay tuned.